Future Atelier Retrofit Kit
Individual
Speculative Design
2nd Year - DXB210 Critical Experience Design
The Problem
This was a semester long project split over two assessments.
Assignment one (the process) was a world building exercise using a mix of research and speculative design tools, examining socio-technical themes to imagine a possible future scenario for Queensland in 2080.
Assignment two (the outcome) asked us to design an interactive artefact that the people of Queensland in 2080 who were presented in our first assignment might interact with. This artefact was to be presented in a collage aimed at provoking a contemporary audience to consider their actions in regards to the socio-technical themes explored in assignment one.
The Process
Introduction to the context
Background research (desktop & literature review)
Exploration of inspiring designs
Analysis of relevant current technologies
Rich Picture
Four Corners of Possibility brainstorms
Ideation sketches
Moodboards
Colour board
Future world description / narrative
Future world visual mockup
Identification of socio-technical themes
Introduction to the context
(in Speculative Design) Who are you designing for?
It is tempting to think that we are designing for the people of Queensland in 2080 but this is not strictly true.
In creating critical or speculative designs we are designing for people in the present day. In the words of Dunne and Raby “What we are interested in, though, is the idea of possible futures and using them as tools to better understand the present and to discuss the kind of future people want, and, of course, ones people do not want.” (2013).
We are designing for the people of today, for the designers, innovators, decision makers and even the everyday person. We are designing to provoke them, to encourage them to consider the impacts of their choices and to “open up spaces of debate and discussion” around what type of future world we would like to create (Dunne and Raby, 2013).
Socio-Technical Themes
Throughout this assignment I will be exploring the socio-technical themes of:
Climate Change / Sustainment
Implications of Technology (on manufacture & design)
Economic Systems
Through a lens of fashion and textile design. These themes will be outlined in depth in Section 5: Themes.
Background Research
I conducted a mix of literature reviews and desktop research exploring:
Current State of the Fashion and Textile Industries - Queensland
Current State of the Fashion and Textile Industries - Australia
Climate Change - Queensland
Economics - Queensland
Inspiring Designs
I looked at both speculative design pieces and designs that are actively seeking to change the way we interact with our clothes.
Relevant Current Tech
I explored a number of emerging and existing technologies relevant to the socio-technical themes I had identified. These included:
Blockchain
Design for disassembly
IDEO’s Circular Design Guide / Toolkit
Recycled natural and synthetic fibres
Biosynthetic textiles
Closed loop manufacturing / factories
Digital only fashion
Augmented reality
Digital fashion design tools
3D printing
Rich Pic
Rich pictures are similar to a brainstorm with the addition of sketches to further highlight and convey key concepts and ideas.
Four Corners of possibility
When we think about potential futures there is tendency to consider futures that are either unrealistically idealistic or terrifyingly bleak. The Four Corners of Possibility are a speculative design tool to add nuance to our future casting by asking the designer to consider four different scenarios:
What would happen if society continues on its current trajectory? What would enable / stop this?
What would happen if society were to collapse? What would the cause be? What would the effects be?
What would happen if society became more disciplined (was more carefully directed)?
In what ways could society change completely?
Ideation Sketches & Colour Board
Moodboards
The Outcome
Future World Description
Urban Queensland in 2080 is a world divided between those who believe in exponential technology growth (technologists) and those who believe the world should be returned to a pre 1950s model of living and consumption (restorationists).
Loyalties are communicated through people's fashion choices. Restorationists follow a slow fashion approach, favouring local production and traditional techniques; natural fibres which have been adapted for growth and wear in the hot Queensland climate and longevity in terms of quality and timeless styles.
In contrast, technologists embrace all things revolutionary in the world of fashion; this group displays their loyalty through nanotech fibres that shape shift and change colours; styles that change rapidly and are able to be fully recycled into a new outfit almost instantly and manufacturing techniques that have revolutionised the way fashion is created.
Both sides are served by the creation of a direct peer to peer economy. With a universal basic income, craftsmanship has once more become valued and people are able to directly collaborate with designers to create fashions that display their beliefs and communicate and express their individual identity.
Socio-Technical Themes
Climate Change & Sustainment
Tony Fry in his book Design as Politics (2011) predicts that we are entering a period of global instability. This instability will be brought about primarily through the impacts of climate change. Reduced access to resources (water, food) and increases in natural disasters (which will make many regions inhospitable) will lead to political instability (war) and displaced populations (climate refugees).
Fry describes our current period as one of defuturing, where planetary boundaries are pushed beyond their limits. Currently, we make “feeble attempts” at repairing climate change through sustainability. This however is not enough. Instead, Fry proposes that we need to move to a period of sustainment, which will not repair the damage done but will buy humanity time to work towards repair. The future I envision of Queensland in 2080 sits in this period of sustainment.
Through a fashion lens this would look like drastically reduced patterns of consumption, a return to craftsmanship and quality and considered design for every stage of the garment life cycle.
Implications of Technology
The Fourth Industrial Revolution (Industry 4.0) is being embraced by the fashion industry (Spaihu et al., 2021). It focuses on digitisation and virtualisation of manufacturing and design processes.
There is also a lot of research being conducted in the areas of new fibres and post consumer waste (Bailey, 2021).
Historically advances in technology in the fashion industry have led to a speeding up of fashion cycles (originally two seasons, now sometimes daily drops) and changes to styles and silhouettes (e.g. athleisure with the advent of flat seam, or seamless performance knits) (Seo, Kim & Lee, 2015; World Economic Forum, 2021).
Both the fashion industry and consumers have recognised that the speeding up of fashion cycles and increased consumption is not sustainable. And yet many still consume in an unchanged manner. Perhaps one implication of future technologies will be advances in textile waste management to allow for this rate of consumption.
Economic Systems
Kate Raworth in her book Doughnut Economics argues that our current economic models based on capitalism are not sustainable (2017). Current economic systems rely on constant consumption and never ending growth.
However as Raworth points out growth can only continue so long as there are resources to feed it. But the world has finite resources, what Raworth defines as the planetary boundaries. Doughnut Economics is a model for living and creating inside these boundaries
Another system that works well with this is the concept of Circular Economies as outlined by William McDonough and Michael Braungart in their book Cradle to Cradle Design (2002). This is an area gaining interest in the fashion industry but is still in its infancy (Brydges, 2021).
Another economic system that may be well established by 2080 is the Peer to Peer Economy. This economy may operate through sharing or direct financial transactions, both of which have become easier through digitisation (Bauwens, Kostakis & Pazaitis, 2019).
Artefact: Future Atelier Retrofit Kit
Queenslanders in 2080 have come to understand the need to live within planetary boundaries and that the planet’s resources are finite. The state is currently in a period of sustainment. This began in the 2060s, where all non-essential industries, including the fashion and textile industry, were stopped globally, to try and give the atmosphere a chance to recover from greenhouse gas emissions; which had not been cut sufficiently in the preceding decades.
The sustainment included a halt on the generation of new, virgin materials and a cut back on global goods transport. It became virtually impossible to buy new clothing due to scarcity of garments to stock fast fashion stores and the resulting increases in the cost of garment production by hand. Despite the limits on production of new garments people still craved clothing that represented their identity and the desire for newness and novelty seems embedded within human nature.
As fast fashion brands failed, home sewers transitioned to a new model of visible mending, clothes flipping and recycling. Innovations in green technology (as well as the millions of tonnes of textiles generated by fast fashion consuming previous generations) have allowed for on-shore and cottage industry clothing production from recycled fibres reclaimed through urban mining.
The Retrofit Kit designed by Future Atelier allows home sewers and small fashion enterprises to modify existing and historic sewing machines for modern design and production. The kit includes a mix of glass, metal and 3D printed parts, all made from reclaimed materials. The modifications include the addition of holographic projectors which can project a toile to be manipulated with Augmented Reality for precise fit on either a dress form or human; A large funnel which can be stoppered and fed with old textiles and Future Atelier’s patented Nanotech Fibre Dissolver to create 3D printing liquid. The liquid is stored in the body of the machine (separate to the design hardware/software which is embedded into the arm casing) before being extruded as filament from the original sewing needle location to form a garment in the whole, doing away with wasteful cut and sew practices.
The Future Atelier Retrofit Kit has been created to enhance the clothes making experience for the home sewer, whilst still capturing the old world charm and mindfulness of sitting and working at the machine. The 3D printer only extrudes when the foot pedal or knee lift is compressed (depending on the original machine make) and the thickness of the filament is adjusted with dials, much like the stitch length in the sewing practice of old. The integration of AR for toile fit ensures no textiles are wasted in the design process and guarantees that even the home sewer can make a professional looking outfit. Maintaining the slow, tactile process of sewing with a machine rebuilds connection to our garments.
The Future Atelier Retrofit Kit increases the value of fast fashion textile waste of yesteryear, allowing today’s creatives to turn their great grandparents trash into today’s treasure.
Reflection
Although I’d been fascinated by speculative design since being introduced to it at the 2020 24 Hours of UX conference this subject was my first chance to try it for myself. I think speculative design can be powerful for inspiring change in people in that it’s a tool to make the intangible future, tangible. I think this is a space that interaction designers can really show their skill in. The small, nuanced, physical and digital interactions that interaction designers spend so much time refining to create a delightful experience in product and experience design are the same small details that can make something speculative realistic.
Whilst collage was an effective tool given the class was online, I would have liked to make something physical to interact with for the artefact.